(NM) Wahrlich wahre Worte von Daniel Posner von der „Grapes The Wine Company“ / New York über den 2006er Jahrgang in Montalcino, die Macht der Kritiker und viel zu hohe Punkte. Der ganz normale Wahnsinn eines Weinverkäufers eben.
Many of you have requested to see our list of 2006 Brunello di Montalcino that we have to offer…we may have to put it up on the website pretty soon. For now, here is a list of CONFIRMED quantities and wines that we can offer. In the end, you have come to know Grapes as a source of outstanding wines, at even better prices. That will not change with 2006 Brunello. Please be patient. We are working everyday, to get 2006 Brunellos confirmed, but at reasonable prices. I think you will be happy with our first dip.
You will note that we are using one man’s ratings…for now, James Suckling. I know, who is James Suckling? James was the Bordeaux and Italian wine critic for the Wine Spectator magazine for the past 30 years. He recently left, to start his own website. It puts us wine retailers, producers, importers, wholesalers, and wine consumers in an interesting pickle. Do you trust James Suckling? Well, he has been reviewing wine for 30 years, so that is a plus. Nevertheless, I am skeptical. These days, any wine critic that cares to stay relevant needs to pump up high scores. Recently, respected wine critics Antonio Galloni and Allen Meadows have started to bump up scores a point or two. At the same time, Stephen Tanzer and his crew have remained with the same low scores. Who has gotten more well known and more „popular“ over the past few years? Galloni and Meadows. Coincidence?
The recently released Brunello report from James Suckling is littered with ridiculously high scores. So high, that it makes Jay Miller’s range of scores look low. So, do you trust James Suckling? If James had come out with a report littered with „low“ scores, say 92s, and 93s, plus an occasional 95 for the amazing stuff, would anyone care? Would James Suckling become relevant? Not likely. See, scores sell. Scores sell wine to importers, to wholesalers, to retailers and and to consumers. Everyone loves a good score! Scratch that, everyone loves a GREAT score. So James Suckling scored 2006 Brunello very very very high. Why would James do that? Because he is selling also…selling subscriptions to his website, and selling his relevancy to the wine public, while selling his soul to the point devil! And, with high scores, people are going to buy in. Why? Because we are suckers. We give in to high scores. We have for years. 20 years ago, 88 points for a $30 wine was looking pretty good to consumers. Now, 88 points cannot help sell a $10 wine. Why? Relevance…the first critic to give out high scores wins. Robert Parker was the first winner, as he gave out an uncanny amount of 99 and 100 point scores over the past decade, when the 88 point scores just were not enough. Ironically, the number of subscribers to the Wine Advocate is less now than it was 10 years ago. Yet, he is the most relevant wine critic in the world. Winner? Well, he gets lots of money for speaking engagements, sells lots of books when he writes them, and drink the most amazing wines out of his personal cellar, so lets call him a winner.
All I am trying to tell you is that be wary of scores. Buy what you like. Let’s take the 100 point score on the Tenuta Nuova today…this wine is NOT Brunello. If you love traditional Brunello, then do not pour the Nuova and convince yourself it is Brunello. Is it great wine? Sure, I love the stuff. 2001 and 2004 were awesome wines. But they were not awesome Brunello.
That being said, 2006, for Montalcino, is an outstanding vintage, much like it was throughout the rest of Tuscany. When the other critics come out with their reports, expect to see some more over the top scores. Just be wary, though, as everyone has a motive. This is a business. Businesses want to make money, and points sell!
In meinen Augen trifft dies den Nagel auf den Kopf! Welchen Sinn macht eine 100 Punkte Skala, in der nur 10 Punkte wirklich zählen? Kommentare zu diesem Thema sind immer wilkommen!
Was uns in den nächsten Jahren noch an Punkten-Exzessen erwarten kann, zeigt der Artikel von Michael Liebert über Brunello 2010.